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Squamish Beta

Squamish is a climber's dream. Massive walls, vast boulder fields, and diverse crags make Squamish Canada's premier climbing area. Located halfway between Vancouver and Whistler, along the beautiful Sea To Sky highway, the small town of Squamish has become one of North America's top road-trip destinations. The variety, quality, and easy access to the rock makes Squamish special. From downtown you can walk in twenty minutes to thousands of climbs of every style, making Squamish what may be the world's top urban climbing centre. Aside from climbing, the mountains, rivers, lakes, and ocean offer many opportunities to enjoy the outdoors.

How to Get to Squamish
Food/Goodies
Nightlife
Gear
Rest Days
Showers
Accommodation

How to Get to Squamish

From Vancouver airport: if you are renting a car simply drive out of the airport and follow signs for Highway 99 North. If you are using public transit, it is possible to get to the Greyhound (Pacific Central Station) by city bus and skytrain or by shuttle bus.
By car: from anywhere. Locate Highway 99 on your map and follow it. When you see the Chief, you've arrived.

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Food/Goodies

Downtown Squamish has two major grocery stores: Save On Foods and Nester's Market. There is also a health food store by Nester's. In the summer don't miss the small farmers market every Saturday. There are also many good restaurants and coffee shops. A few not to miss are The Sunflower Bakery, Corina Gelata, Chef Big D's, Yiannis Greek, and the Red Heather.

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Nightlife

As far as pubs and bars go there are a few choices. Check out the Brew Pub for a social night out. The more adventurous would want to check out the Ocean Port or the Chieftan Hotel. If you really need to party hard, head to Vancouver for the night to experience the full gambit.

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Required Gear

Rope: A 60-meter rope is standard and will get you down most routes. A 70-meter rope comes in handy to link pitches together. For multipitch it's a good idea to have an extra rope for descending. Rack: The standard rack consists of a set of nuts from small RP's to 1 1/2 inch, a set of cams from thin fingers to fist, around six extendable draws, and 6 quickdraws. This will get you up most routes, however there are many routes that require you to double up on certain sized cams. Unlike other crack climbing areas, such as Indian Creek, the cracks of Squamish are not perfectly parallel, reducing the need for many same-sized pieces. Shoes: For the cracks, you'll want comfy shoes that allow your toes to sit flat. For the slabs, either smearing shoes or razorblade edging shoes, depending on your style. For the boulders good front pointing and heel hooking is essential. Crash pads: one crash pad will keep you off the ground and safe on the lowballs, however, many of the landings are uneven or on talus, requiring extra pads. If you can, bring a couple of pads or boulder with a few friends.

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Rest Days

There are loads of activities for your rest days. You can go swimming at one of the many local lakes, mountain bike on some of the best trail systems in the world, kayak or raft one of the miles of rivers, windsurf or kiteboard on Howe Sound, hike up the backside trail of the Chief, hot tub at the Brennan Park Leisure Centre, use the internet at the public library or the Hot Spot, slackline at the park, clean new boulder problems in the North Walls....

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Showers

Several options exist for showering. Brennan Park Leisure Centre has free showers by the baseball diamonds, a little nasty some times, but free. The better option is pay them $3.25 for clean showers, the pool, and hot tubs. Club Flex will let you shower for $3.

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Accommodation

Camping
Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground. The climbers' campground. A site is $9 a night. You can split the site by four people, making it a very affordable option. Contains drive-in and walk-in sites, water, pit toilets, and a festive atmosphere. The climbing begins less than a minute walk from your site.
Squamish Municipal Campground. A little more expensive, but quieter. Close to the Smoke Bluffs (and the hot tubs).
Alice Lake Provincial Park. Large and family-oriented full service campground on a lake. About ten kilometres north of Squamish.

Hostel/Motel/Hotel
Inn On The Water, formerly the Squamish Hostel. From shared rooms to private suites this is a good option if you don't want to sleep in a tent. Walking distance from the Chief and the Smoke Bluffs.
August Jack. Cheap, but clean motel located in downtown. Twenty-minute walk to the crags.
Mountain Retreat Hotel. Upscale hotel close to the Smoke Bluffs.

Longer Term
Check out Craigslist or the Squamish Chief Newspaper for rooms for rent. Usually around $300/month.

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